After my normal cheery ‘good morning’, grunt in reply, I go downstairs to shave and prep breakfast – the usual porridge. Simon rocks in just as I have served out into bowls, perfect timing. We can see the rain falling onto the velux windows and know today's gonna be wet.
We pack and depart. I have made a marginal improvement to my 'system' this morning - putting a tea bag in the cooking pans to save having to dig this out of my pack for our mid-day brew. It's certainly a lifelong learning journey.
I pick up additional breakfast supplies from the coop and then go into the bakers next door to get a lunchtime sandwich. What a fantastic bakers! I get chicken tikka masala sandwich, corned beef pasty and a Bakewell slice. We are reluctant to leave the warmth of the bakery, but don waterproofs and head off into the world.
Leaving Bellingham
There is a no wind but a persistent rain that feels set for the day. Above picture is the swollen North Tyne, flowing very silently but unstoppable. We walk in full waterproofs, hoods up, out of the town. We are soon walking across wet and sodden fields.
I have noticed that my dad's 1971 trip produced no photos between Hadrian's Wall and Bellingham. I could sort of see why. Damp and boggy reed filled fields, with the mist limiting views, probably of more distant boggy and reed filled fields.
The small streams were swollen
And the rivers were in full spate
We were just commenting upon how this was the first day that we had met no other PW walkers, when into view lopes a fast moving man heading towards us. He is training for the Spine Race. This Is an ultra endurance event that has people running the pennine way in January over 7 days. I am genuinely amazed that there are people out there that can do this sort of thing. And he has to carry his own gear. Feeling did pack it is at least 15lbs.
As we enter the next field I notice a red sign inviting people to visit the ‘pit stop’. This is a farm outbuilding that has comfy chairs, a kettle, toilet, fridge, tea and coffee, etc. On our persistently wet day this was a godsend. We made tea, got out of our waterproofs, ate our pasties/pies, made more tea, and watched the rain falling outside. The people running this venture are truly deserving of all our thanks and gratitude – they are making a real difference to the world.
The 'Pitstop'
Eventually we have to put on our damp and clammy waterproofs and continue. It’s hoods up and retreat into our own thoughts as we progress through the wet grass, reeds, mud, puddles and bog. No nice paved sections on this part of the walk. When we reach the Wark Forest we eat our sandwiches, in the pouring rain, and continue our wet and watery way. Can't be bothered to make tea in the downpour, so no feedback on this morning's system enhancement. All of that said, the autumn colours are quite stunning.
In the Wark Forest
One advantage of doing the walk from north to south is that the natural defensive position of Hadrian's Wall, seen in the skyline above, is really appreciated. It seems to take ages to reach the wall.
The compulsory picture of Sycamore Gap
As we walk along the wall the rain does finally stop. But the wind really starts to pick up strength, and our thoughts turn to where we are going to stay. We think the youth hostel is full, but the weather might have led to cancellations. The hostel might allow camping, but no cheaper than the hostel price and perhaps not very sheltered. The pub at Twice Brewed does camping at £5 per tent per night, but again the wind is a worry. I also notice, plan C, a sheltered hollow we could use to put up a tent near the main road.
As it happens there are beds in the hostel. We have our own 4 bed dorm for £13 each. Relief! Wet boots in drying room, shower, and wash socks, pants and T shirt in sink.
Next worry is whether we will get food in pub. No problem. I have delicious steak and ale pie, Simon a steak. We then spend the rest of the evening chatting to Duncan and Bertie. It is interesting to note the number of fascinating people we have met so far on this journey and this is probably the most rewarding aspect of this adventure. We live so much of our lives within the bounds of our own little worlds, but there is so much within reach.
Simon seems to have a particular affinity with Nippy, or perhaps it is the other way round. Binker is the rather laid back hound in the foreground.
Distance walked today: 17 milesTotal trail walked: 62 miles
Well what can I say, A* for endurance. Having walked a 16 miles totally in the rain on the Herriot Way I can imagine how wet you both were . Dave did you invest in those Galvin Greens as recommended? The steak pie however sounds right up my street!
ReplyDeleteEnjoying the blog, makes me smile and I look forward to catching up.