Breakfast is the standard porridge. Simon was interested in the hostel cooked breakfast but as I pointed out, after carrying the ingredients all the way from Bellingham I'm buggered if we're not going to use them.
Looking at the day ahead with a more sober reflection than last night we realise that Haltwhistle is 2 ½ miles off route, but we need to obtain food for tonight's meal. We devise a divide and conquer strategy for the day.
I go to collect my washed clothes. If you can imagine the house of the old woman who lived in a shoe, then the misleadingly named drying room smells 10 times worse and has the air of a fetid sauna. The clothes are all pretty wet. I attach T shirt and underpants, fortunately a rather attractive blue, to the outside of my rucksack and put the wet socks inside.
I set off first as I will be diverting off the trail to go into Haltwhistle while Simon goes further on the path before diverting to Greenhead. The plan is to rendezvous in Greenhead.
I am soon back on a particularly good section of wall. The morning is cool and I feel my washing is not going to dry on my rucksack. Despite the better weather this world heritage site is rather deserted this morning.
Milecastle 42 looking little changed after 48 years. I doubt the same can be said for the young lad in the photo. Shortly after this I come off the wall onto a footpath that joins a black dotted path going into Haltwhistle.
The problem with following black dotties is that they can range from the broadest track to the merest hint that someone once went that way. The above picture shows this is in the former category and is one of the best sections of the walk so far. The path is in fact an old railway that follows the Haltwhistle Burn as it cascades through a wooded and steep sided canyon. I meet s dog walker, the first person to speak to today, and feel a need to share the grandeur of the place: it's great here isn't it? It's a bit crap today, cold. Oh come on, I was out yesterday and this is fantastic
Not long after I'm in the coop buying my shopping. Haltwhistle looks a great little town – shame we hadn't managed to stay there as per plan. I then leave aiming to rejoin the wall near milecastle 45. It's a prolonged 2 ½ mile uphill slog first on roads and then increasingly dubious paths.
Off the national trail I find that the paths not so well maintained. Once back on the proper route I find it a little busier than before and set about tracking down Simon, or the 'man in shorts' as people seem to call him. I love it when you can get news of someone relayed along the trail. ‘are you with the chap in shorts? He's just ahead of you and will be really pleased to see you’
My first glimpse of Simon by Thirwell castle. Almost immediately after this we turned off to go to the cafe in Greenhead for lunch.
Lunch very good, though at £18 it is adding to our meals-out spending. Rejoin the PW after lunch and we are back in the reed strewn badlands. But help is on the way as we can see the edge of the cloud blanket moving towards the sun followed by blue sky.
Good to see my shadow again.
Everything looks better in the sunshine, even the bogs.
We meet 3 lads doing the pennine way. They had tales of being caught in the storm on Cross Fell. They cheerfully told us we were about to face a bad section where we would be wading. They had also met Joshua who was several hours ahead of us – another example of the trail telegraph in operation.
They were right about the wading
South Tyne valley approaches. But it never seems to get any nearer
It is getting warmer in the sunshine so I set up a washing line on my rucksack to dry my recently washed socks
It's a glorious end to the day
We find a great campsite in the above field by Hartley Burn. We wait for the sun to set before putting up the tent as this seems more discrete. We hear a quad bike and then see someone at the end of the field checking on their sheep. We're not sure whether we've been spotted but decide to move and find a more hidden spot nearby. Pitch the tent in the gloom and cook tea in the semi darkness.
It's soon very dark and getting cold, with a bit of a moon rising through the trees
Distance walked today: 13 miles
Total trail walked: 75 miles – less than 200 to go!!
Well done so far Dave and Simon. Great, descriptions Dave I almost feel like I’m there, but have to say quite glad I’m not! I hope the weather gets a bit kinder and you can dry your socks
ReplyDeleteBrilliant. Well done, one question which is harder, the walking, the rain or trying to get Simon to camp rather than look for an alternative place to stay every night? :)
ReplyDeleteHope the weather gets better!!
Yes, Simon always wants to create an alternative. Whether it's accommodation, which route we're on, what to eat, etc
DeleteLooking forward to seeing accompany pics to your excellent commentary later in the week-perhaps not of damp clothes, but definitely the view ;)
ReplyDelete