It was a cold night, one of the rare times I've ever had to do up the draw cord on my sleeping bag to keep the heat in. Simon seemed to be wearing all of his clothes in his bag. Awoke to a frosty morning. The thermometer on Simon's garmin read -4.5 (yes minus). I put on both fleeces, leggings, trousers, hat, gloves before venturing out to make cup of tea and breakfast. I had a dream during the night in which all of the skin on my feet was peeling away. I took this as a sign that I should put on my final set of dry socks.
Tent was covered in ice, my pans were stuck together. Our wet boots were frozen solid, which were a delight to put on. Not. Fortunately there was not a breath of wind, so not really too bad
Set off walking at 8.45. The frost was only on the lower ground, so we had clearly experienced some interesting temperature inversion phenomena.
The first mile or so was heavy going and the frost had not done much to solidify the boggy reed filled pools. My feet were soon wet again. I now owned one set of clean wet socks and two sets of dirty wet socks.
We reached the road at Langley and Simon looked wistfully down it towards the old railway that would provide easier progress towards Alston and mumbled something about wanting to see the railway viaduct.
This would mean missing the Maiden Way, an old Roman road, pictured above. So we stuck to the proper route.
We had a slight navigational error and came down some broken steps part funded by the European Agricultural Guidance and Guarantee Fund. I hope this isn't an omen that all EU funded infrastructure will self destruct on March 29th next year. Simon took it as an omen to head for the old railway and the South Tyne Trail. We agreed to meet at Knarsdale and I continued on the Roman Road.
Successful rendezvous
At this point I join Simon on the railway for the 1 ½ miles to Slaggyford. I then want to do the section along the South Tyne and the Epiacum Roman fort. So we go our separate ways again. This is turning into a daily occurrence. I don't know whether Anita has told Simon to make sure Dave has his own space, but I have some time spent during which I think about my time with Sue and where my life might go in the future. Nothing sad or mournful, just reflective. But I guess that's part of the reason I'm doing this
The South Tyne is a delight
Epiacum fort when my dad came through in AD 197 and nearly 1900 years later. It still has the best preserved ramparts of any fort in the empire.
Threatening cows. They were ok, but were tempted to have a go, especially one with a rather fetching green nose ring. I decided not to tempt fate by taking his picture.
Gilderdale Burn, where mum dad and Dylan camped in 1970. Same spot today
I reach Alston some time after Simon, and we meet at the station cafe. Nice frittata and salad and then off into town to replenish supplies. And then the final 4 miles to Garrigill. It is turning into another warm afternoon.
Finding a nice sunny field we decide to sit and dry the tent and wet socks.
I wash my wet dirty socks in the stream. Simon works the phones to line up accommodation for the next two days
All in all its another superb end to the day
We arrive at Garrigill, where we are staying in the bunk house in the village hall
It is next to the George and Dragon, a superb and cosy pub where we had fabulous lasagne and salad and chips – plus gravy for Simon. Simon spent much of the evening chatting to the locals and working out how to move his luggage two days down the trail to Middleton in Teesdale. As far as I can work out, this was happening as I was updating this blog, Simon is leaving his gear in his orange bivi bag outside the pub. It will be picked up by Rob and Rebecca heading home to Barlestone and dropped off at the campsite in Middleton. Where we will arrive to meet it in two days time. What can possibly go wrong?
Distance walked today: 17 miles
Total trail walked: 91 miles
That log fire looks cosy. Hope all your socks have dried out?
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