Day 13: Malham to Cowling

The self catering kitchen at the hostel was bustling as we had breakfast. Normally we have these places to ourselves. Packed and out walking by 8.45. It's good to have Simon back under control again.

It's a beautiful morning. Cold and frosty but also feeling warm in the early sunshine. We follow the old pennine way route past the Aire Head springs. This is the river we saw disappearing just after Malham Tarn.
This section of the Way is totally new to me, and I had no idea as to what was coming. It was difficult to know where to look, we were walking through a 360 degree panorama of loveliness:

I have never visited the upper Aire valley before, but think it exceeds Teesdale. It's a lovely riverside stroll through bucolic parkland.
The landscape gradually changes, becoming more gentle

Hardy sheep give way to photogenic cows.

Bleak hill farms give way to charming cottages

We meet today's Pennine Wayfarer. He is from Sweden and had a tough first 3 days walking through rain and mist, with a cold. His 15 year old boots then failed him and he is not too happy with the replacement pair. He is thinking of doing a short day to Malham and wants some advice on accommodation. We give him the Malham options but also advise him to stay in the Tan Hill Inn. ‘Ah yes, I have heard off the Tan Hill.’
We arrive at Gargrave, where we encounter the Leeds and Liverpool Canal:

We are also hoping for a cafe and a cup of tea. The cafe is closed. We chat to a resting cyclist, out for an early ride to clear his hangover. We quiz him on whether we will find any refreshment in the up-coming villages. He is pessimistic. We pick up stuff for lunch and push on for another hour.
The route is still through lush green rolling meadowland, with sheep and very docile cows. The temperature seems to be dropping, but that's probably because the wind is growing stronger.

We meet the canal again and follow it for a mile or so. We eat in the shelter offered by bridge 160, but are not able to find anywhere where we can be in the sun and also out of the wind. Post lunch our journey continues in a similar theme

Charming village cottages
Pic Simon in parkland
Glorious rolling parkland....But no day on the Pennine Way can be complete without a bit of moorland

We have to climb Pinhaw Beacon on Elslack Moor. But no dark mired pools and beds of marshy reeds here. No, this is dry paths through heather, an altogether more gentle world.
We get to Lothersdale and the Hare and Hounds is open. We have been after tea/coffee all day so venture in. Simon has a cup of tea, I try the Lothersdale Pale. We are both happy with our choices. We are also happier now that Tracey who is running our B&B that evening finally makes contact and we begin to believe we have a bed rather than need to find somewhere to camp.
The evenings are getting noticeably darker noticeably earlier. At 6.30 we are in the dark nearing the outskirts of Cowling. Going through the town, our food options for the evening are looking limited. The local shop shuts at 8. The pub stops doing food at 8. The bistro does not open until Wednesday (today is Monday), Sam's Pizzas no longer seems to exist.
We get to the B&B, text Tracey, who arrives from her mum's to let us in. Very quick turnaround to get lunch for tomorrow from shop  have a quick beer in the pub, and order a takeaway curry. The shop is limited, tomorrow's lunch will be interesting. The pub is better. They are selecting their new wine range and are holding a free wine tasting. We order our takeaway, sample the wine, and meet the owner of the Cowling campsite, which was our accommodation plan B. The campsite is now closed for the season.
Then back to the B&B for quick shower and the arrival of our food – which was very good.
So it's been an interesting day in, for me, a previously unknown area. The landscape is softer, the roads busier, but still delightful and still with friendly and open people. We are also beginning to plan for the end of the walk....
Distance walked today: 19 miles
Total distance walked: 212 miles
Distance left: 58 miles

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