Day 14: Cowling to Heptonstall

Up at 6.30 to get yesterday's blog published. Had quick chat with Tracey before she left to go to work. I prepared our picnic lunch using the meagre ingredients available from the local shop. Sliced fruit loaf with Lancashire cheese.
Breakfast at 7.30. Tracey had left out a range of exciting items for us to use including orange juice and crumpets.  Made a nice change from the usual porridge.

Out of the house to start walking by 8.40. We had to rejoin the Way and walk another 3 ½ miles to rendezvous with Philippa at Ponden Reservoir

We had an uphill start as we trudged up Dick Lane and up and across fields to Higher Dean. We were soon looking down on Cowley and walking on reasonable paths through the local farmland.

Hens seemed a popular addition here, to the more usual sheep and goats.

As per yesterday this was new walking territory for me. But a very familiar gritstone landscape of tumbled down walls and decaying farm buildings:

Where we rejoin the route there were other subtle changes giving clues to the changing attitudes of the local people.

A beautifully constructed stone shelter cum viewpoint. But fenced off to keep the public out. Strangers not welcome here.


We pass a number of glorified sheds or chalets. Beach houses without the beach. All heavily locked and fortified to keep out the bad boys of Burnley.
We head towards Ickornshaw Moor, in the old days a fearsome section of the route due to its morass of deep bogs.

A shooting lodge before the moor. No public shelter offered here, unlike the huts encountered a few days ago in more remote areas.

The moor itself was easy to cross on a splendid paved path. We also had the novelty of having the wind behind us rather than in our faces, and for us made record speeds across this section, such that I was having to keep bringing forward our rendezvous time.
What we gained in the wind we lost in meeting today’s Wayfarer. She was walking the trail in sections, having started at Easter and been forced to abandon due to injury. She was now doing a few more days, and would complete in future years. She was not enjoying walking into the strong headwind, and was revising her target destination for the day.

The local population may be suspicious around here, but the sheep were very trusting and friendly – our walker is trying to get a shelfie with a sheep.

We meet Philippa, accompanied by Geoff – our host for this evening. He had brought out coffee, cake, and chairs! So a very comfortable little break.
Philippa is joining us today, and we set off towards our lunchtime target of Top Withins.
Passing run down and scruffy buildings:


We also encounter the Bronte way. I know the Brontes are big in Japan, so nice to see what I assume is Japanese script on the footpath signs:
Pic sign
As we near the Withins it is getting busier, with people visiting this famous spot.

We also come across Buckley Farm Shop, running an honesty box system. Nice to see trust has not entirely disappeared in this area, and I bought some raspberry jam.

The strong wind is making us feel cold. Nice and dry though. We have lunch at Top Withins in the sun and in the shelter of the house wall. Then on for another historical photo shoot:



The reservoirs at Walshaw Dean were very low, I assume due to work being done on them.


We continue over the moors on excellent paths, with strong winds continuing to help us on our way. The heavily wooded Hebden Dale provides a range of Autumn colour and we leave the trail at Mount Pleasant

Eventually Heptonstall church comes into view, and we know we are nearly there. Make our final approach along the Calderdale Way through dark and atmospheric woods

And we arrive to a great welcome. As well as our hosts, Geoff and Jen, Alison and Mick are also there for the evening. Cakes and ale are on offer, as well as shower and chance to get clothes through a proper wash and dry.


And Jen provides a fabulous dinner for everyone. A late night amongst good friends. Some reminiscing about Sue at the end of the evening, which is a bit sad but also fitting
Distance walked today: 16 miles
Total distance walked: 228 miles
Distance left: 42 miles

4 comments:

  1. Top stuff, it's always a bit dodgy when you are skirting along the border between the wonderful friendly and trusting Yorkshire folk and the ever suspicious but well meaning people of the other side :)

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  2. i almost didn't recognise Simon in one of the photos as he had a rucksack on :)

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  3. Nearly there...Here's to the final couple of days stomping into Edale and catch up in the pub on Friday night...

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  4. Great to see you both and Philippa of course. You both look fit and healthy and even the blisters don't seem so bad. Enjoy the last couple of days and to the end and a fantastic achievement . Xxx

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