Day 8: Dufton to Middleton in Teesdale


With our long day ahead of us we had discussed an earlier start. After a lot of haggling we agreed to keep the 7am alarm, but I set it for 6.45 anyway.

As promised here is a picture of the youth hostel. It had the feel of an old country house, along with a very nice garden with red squirrels. After breakfast we managed to set off walking by 8am, our earliest start yet.

Dufton is a lovely village, hardly changed with the passing of time. We begin the ascent of High Cup Nick and it feels good to be setting off with dry feet. It's also good to be in limestone country with drier ground and greener grass

As we reach higher ground we enter the cloud, which is a shame as the pictures of this area look spectacular. We are aware of a big drop to our right but cannot see it. We are very much hoping to see Nichol Chair, a basalt pinnacle just off the route, but visibility is poor.
Here is the chair. Legend tells of a Dufton cobbler who climbed this and soled and heeled a pair of boots on  the top.
Route finding becomes somewhat tricky as there are a myriad of tracks and the mist obscures any visibility. There are occasional stone way markers, but sometimes horses can be confused for these.


We descend alongside Maize Beck, a fine upland river.


This joins the Tees at Cauldron Snout and Cow Green reservoir. Nice to see the dam finally complete 48 years later.
The next section of the route follows the Tees all the way to Middleton. And I must say that Teesdale is an utter delight. Here are a few delightful pictures:


 Above: High Force
 Above: another view of High Force
 Above: Low Force
Above: beautiful Autumn colour on the Tees
Blisters have started developing. Simon has a large blister on his heel and I have a small blister on the side of a toe. Not surprising, but a shame to happen to me on one of the few days where my feet have remained dry.
After High Force we meet Alistair, walking north. He is delighted to see us as we are the first PW walkers he has encountered. We swap notes on the route. He is down on the street with the kids, using Instagram to record his trip, under the name of The Man Who Strolled The World.
I go ahead in the last two miles to get our tent put up before dark. I arrive at the campsite at 6.30 and am relieved to find Simon's gear in the laundry room.
Into Middleton for tea. It's rather dead, and has the dullest pubs we've encountered so far. Food good though, and the locals have given us a good pointer towards the butcher, who also does pies and cakes. So a combined butcher and baker, but not a candlestick maker

Miles walked today: a long 21 miles
Total trail walked: 129 miles

2 comments:

  1. brilliant as ever , shame the mist was down , high cup nick is a spectacular glaciated valley , and yes that tees valley is great , i remember it , and thinking what a nice place , then we came upon the dam construction ! ironic i'm working on a dam in the mountains at the moment , although regulations are much stricter now , and everything has to be reinstated as was . Really enjoying this , hope you two are as well .

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  2. Omg! Blisters!!! Be very careful they don’t turn in to big slugs as as mine did in the summer!!!
    You’re nearly half way!!!!
    xx

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