Day 10: The Tan Hill Inn to Hardraw


Above picture shows our room – loads of space to spread out
Woke at 6.45,with direct view out of the famously double glazed window onto a fine clear morning. At £30 I was determined to use all of the facilities. So showered, washed clothes in sink, put into a washing machine for 16 minute rinse and spin cycle and then into the tumble drier while we went down for breakfast.
Excellent breakfast, with bacon, egg, hash brown, beans, mushrooms, tomato and a surprise black pudding which arrived ¾ of the Way through the meal. All ably cooked by Darren who has asked for a special mention in the log. Bernard has not planned his walk as well as us and asks about getting a sandwich from the pub. He goes visibly pale when he learns that the packed lunch costs £7.50. Maybe he now regrets sending his black pudding back to the kitchen instead of saving it for later. We give him our malt loaf and tell him there is a laden pear tree near Pasture End.
Simon spends a lot of effort trying to arrange for his bag to be transported to Horton to save him carrying it. He seems to have half an arrangement, that is totally reliant on getting into the Green Dragon bunk room and on them doing bedding. I have to take the stove/pans back and Simon optimistically leaves his pack behind the bar.
We pay the bill, which is large. The spreadsheet is starting to show that the beer bill is pulling ahead of the other budget categories.

Packed up and ready to go by 9.45, another late start. Chilly and breezy, which was tremendously helpful as I nursed my mild hangover. It's always a dangerous sign when I go onto the whisky, but last night did have an air of celebration to it.

Looking back at the pub. Still looks remote, but not as remote as last night
The first 4 miles are downhill to Keld. Before long Great Shunner Fell, our peak de jour, comes into view with Swaledale in front of it:

Swaledale means sheep

....Swaledale  means barns in lush green meadows

....Swaledale means waterfalls

....Swaledale means tea shops
We have cups of tea at Thwaite. Simon has a fish finger bap and I sneakily eat the scones and butter I have brought from Middleton. Simon is having a great day. The lack of rucksack is making a big difference and he is loving having to blag his bag moves

After Thwaite we begin the long gradual ascent of Great Shunner Fell. The path up is excellent, with lots of paved sections. Simon is still working  the phones and manages to get the last available bed in the Green Dragon. Lucky, as his rucksack is stuck at Tan Hill until Saturday.

There is a strong and cold wind on the summit. Not even the quest for historical accuracy will persuade me into shorts for the summit photo. Note how the pile of random rocks has now been transformed into an excellent wind shelter, incorporating the trig point. Thank you Wenseydale Round Table.

There is an equally good path for the long gradual descent to Hardraw. Arrive in Hardraw for 6. I not only have the tent to myself but have the entire campsite to myself

Off to the Green Dragon for beer and food


Met interesting guys up here for some trail biking - one from Belgium the other from Liverpool. Mr Liverpool says that when walking, priority 1 is feet, priority 2 is food. Apparently the gold miners in the Amazon put shampoo into their boots to ward off infection. Paras use talc to ensure dry feet at end of day. Interesting tips
After today, Simon now says that the days are not bad, and the evenings are still great.
Distance walked today: 16 miles
Total distance walked: 162
Distance left: 108 miles

1 comment:

  1. Well done Dave for not being as soft as Simon! Simon your bags are on the way!!

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