• Did Simon want to do the walk at all. He was worried about ‘walking day after day carrying a heavy pack'
• To see if our equipment worked. I had a concern as to whether my small cooking pans would do for 2 people
• Were we missing any essential items
• Could I ditch the need for carrying maps on this well signed route by relying on Wainwright's guidebook and downloaded OS maps on my phone
• Could we survive on a gruel based breakfast of porridge
• Could we survive each other's company for a prolonged period
The two days of our walk coincided with the first two categorised storms of the season. Thank you Ali and Bronagh for making the training so realistic. They also coincided with me helping Simon with his kitchen fitting, so I had a full 4 days of his cheery company.
We started our walk in Birchover at 10.30. A late start with a forecast of several hours of heavy rain. I have a theory that weather forecasts overplay the risk of rain and sure enough the first 6 miles through Youlgreave and towards Monyash were delightful and needing no more than shorts and T shirts. Our rucksacks felt so light and comfortable that I was worried we had forgotten something critical. Like a tent perhaps. Ali was generating strong winds and we wanted somewhere more sheltered for lunch. The steep sided Calesdale looked a likely spot but turned out to be steep, rocky, and venerated. And it was starting to rain. And then we found a small cave in an overhanging cliff.
Tea was brewed and thick slices of date and walnut teabread with slabs of butter. This was my planned long-life food option for the first two days and worked very well. A brief walk in the rain before the sun came out just before Monyash. More tea at the cafe and the rest of the day was quite easy going. Ali's strong winds were a slight concern as the campsite at Monsal Head is on quite high ground. As it turned out the camping field was well sheltered and we pitched the tent and were in the pub by 7pm. The Packhorse at Little Longstone is one of my favourites. And everyone else's apparently, as there was little chance of getting a table for food and we had foolishly decided we had no need to book. Then the kind hand of fate intervened and a small table in the bar room was offered. I managed to get the last portion of lamb with devilled kidneys so was feeling particularly pleased. Simon had rabbit pie as he wanted a chip option. Interesting chat with some locals who both lived and worked from home in the village. Back in our tent for 11ish.
A little rain in the night but stopped at about 5am. The porridge based breakfast (oats, powdered milk, demerara sugar, and currents) went well. Tent packed away and still not raining. Walking be 07.55. Simon can still surprise me. Thought he would be late starter. Got to Bakewell and still no rain so pushed on to Calton Lees. Got lost on the way, following the wrong path. OS app on phone showed us where we were, so another equipment-proving moment. Still no rain so pushed on to Rowsley. Bronagh started delivering the promised rain ½ mile before Rowsley and it was into waterproofs and into the mill cafe for a cuppa tea. Looking out at the rain we didn't fancy lunch outside, so sneakily cut, buttered, and are our teabread in the cafe washed down by what seemed like endless tea. We eventually had to leave and head into the torrential rain. But this was good. It would prove that all of our gear was waterproof. The rain got ever heavier, reducing visibility and requiring compass to steer across Stanton Moor. My feet started getting wet two miles from the end and arrived back at the car at 15.30. Interesting chat with guy cleaning out barrels at Red Lion micro brewery in Birchover. Offer 5 different beers throughout year and took us through their brewing cycle. Further research visit needed.
When we arrived home I found that my rucksack had leaked. Need a rucksack liner. Simon's rucksack had leaked. He needs to remember to use his rain cover. Simon's coat had leaked. He needs a new coat.
But we haven't been deterred and have booked trains to Berwick for Tuesday 9th October. As Wainright says in his guide: the pennine way does not always offer continuous enjoyment and the compensations are few.
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