Day 9: Middleton in Teesdale to The Tan Hill Inn

Looking out of the tent door at the  stars last night was pretty amazing.

 The clear skies led to a frosty morning and a spectacular sunrise. As breakfast was being made we chatted to our neighbouring camper who was walking the trail heading north. Like Alistair yesterday, we were the first PWers he had met. We calculate that he will soon catch Alistair up.
After breakfast we head into town to pick up supplies and for Simon to post his excess gear home. The prospect of being reunited with his pack has focused his mind on reducing weight. Very good butchers, as promised, who made us sandwiches and sold us some pies. Then the coop for longer life food for tomorrow’s lunch. Unfortunately there is no longer a post office in the village, so Simon is stuck with his excess undies.  Then back to the campsite to pack everything away. Finally on the move by 9.50 – our latest start so far.

Climbing out of Middleton the views opened up in all directions

We came across another trail pit stop offering snacks and cans of drink. Unfortunately we were carrying two days lunches, but would have added some home-made flapjacks except there seemed to be a few on-shelf availability issues with this product line.

Continued climbing on good paths with fabulous long-distance views in warm sunshine and blue skies. Pennine Way, what's not to like? This is the first day I have felt weary, and twinges of pain in my knees suggest I need to slow down.

At Hannah's Nature Reserve we reach a significant milestone, 135 miles and our half way point. This coincides with a sun-facing wall and slope with o.t.a. So we stop for lunch and put out our wet tent and other items to dry/air. The sunshine had obviously gone to my head and I have a bit of a Putin moment with my picnic.
We still have many miles to travel (11, in fact).

It is a fabulous afternoon and feels like summer. There are huge long-distance  views and it's difficult to remember it's October. The next moment of excitement is the shooting lodge at Deepdale Beck.

Normally this would be a place to relax and enjoy, but I am conscious that our 2mph pace was meaning a 7pm finish, so am anxious. Simon looks knackered and we have another 9½ miles to go. Potentially a boggy and tricky 9 ½ miles to boot.

So far so good. Paths good, weather good, views good, but light is fading and we are running out of time.
The trail is taking us west, directly into the setting sun. I have to shade my eyes to see where I am going

The sun has dipped over the horizon, which is helpful as I can now see the path as the more reflective set of puddles in the fading light. The temperature has fallen noticeably, it's going to be another cold night. There is a good moon in the sky, but it is uncertain as to whether this will provide enough light to safely navigate through the mire. I have two big fears now: 1) I lose the path, which means we take loads longer going cross country 2) Simon is fading, refusing to put on warmer clothing and might just lose it altogether. All colour has drained from the landscape and we are following the vaguest of paths through the peat bog.

We climb a slight rise and suddenly we can see a light in the near distance. Not just a light, but the vague outline of a building. Huge feeling of relief. I stumble into a deep water filled hole, but no longer care as our end is in sight. The path becomes firmer underfoot, windows become discernable and we are in the final few hundred metres. We are now on road. We congratulate ourselves on a journey timed to perfection and stumble into the warmth of the inn.

This is possibly our best pub yet. Fairy lights adorn the ceiling, it is warm and we are safe. We book ourselves a space in a bunk room. At £30 per bed this is our most expensive place yet, but this does include breakfast.

We spot another Pennine Wayfarer, identifiable by his limp, and get chatting to Bernard. He is doing the walk in stages over a number of years and is very chatty. Pint follows pint and we are having a great time. We remember to order food before the deadline, there is an extensive pie menu. This is perhaps our best pub yet.
The evening ends with whiskies and eventually to bed around midnight. We have a bunk room for 8 all to ourselves

Miles walked today: 17 miles
Total distance walked: 146 miles
Distance left: 124 miles 

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